Trees provide shade, help freshen the air, and even add value to your property. We all want our trees to stay strong and healthy, but what should you do if you think one of your trees might be dead?

Dead trees don’t just look unattractive, they can actually pose a safety risk. Dead trees are more fragile. They drop branches easily and may even fall completely if not taken care of properly.

Today, I’ll show you how to tell if your tree is dead, and what you can do to keep your home, property, and family safe.

What Causes Trees to Die?

Trees live hundreds of years, right?

Many of them can, but damage and diseases can unfortunately kill a tree prematurely. In an ideal world, you’d notice the warning signs early on.

When a tree is dying, the cause of the problem usually starts underground with the roots and soil. Luckily, you can often see signs of tree death and disease above ground.

Here are some of the most common reasons why trees die:

Too Much or Too Little Water

Making sure your tree gets enough water is especially important when it’s young. Too little water can dry a tree out, while too much can drown it.

How much water your tree needs depends on the type of tree you have and where you live. The Arbor Day Foundation has some helpful tips for how much to water your tree at each stage of its growth.

Contact your local certified arborist if you have more questions about how to water your tree.

Changes in the Soil Grade

Changes in the soil level around your tree can affect how much water and nutrients the tree can absorb. That’s because trees’ primary feeding roots are usually located in the top six inches of soil. Changing the soil grade by even just a few inches can create a problem.

If you’re thinking of adding soil to your yard, be careful. Avoid adding too much near your tree if you can.

Root Damage

Trees need their roots to absorb nutrients and even remain standing. Big trees have strong, sturdy roots, but even those roots can be damaged.

If you have frequently driven over or parked on a tree’s roots, there’s a chance they were damaged.

Not only can the weight of a car damage roots, but all that weight also compacts the soil beneath it, making it harder for the tree to get the water, oxygen, and other nutrients it needs from the soil.

Pouring concrete, laying asphalt, or paving over tree roots can cause similar problems. If tree roots don’t have room to grow, or something is preventing them from feed from the soil, you may have a problem.

Improper Planting or Transplanting

Young trees are especially sensitive, so planting and transplanting them can be risky. A couple common mistakes are:

• Digging a too shallow or too deep hole
• Packing the soil down too hard after planting

Both can smother the tree and prevent proper root growth.

Tip: Any time you plant or transplant a tree, be careful of the root ball (the tangle of roots at the bottom of a young tree). If there is burlap or twine tied around the roots, remove it carefully. Then, gently loosen and separate the root ball just enough to help the roots spread out before you place the tree in the ground.

Photo: Anthony LeBude, NC State University, Bugwood.org

What Does a Dead Tree Look Like?

The warning signs will be slightly different depending on what type of tree you’re dealing with. Usually, though, you’ll be able to tell if there’s something wrong.

What should you look for?

Falling Leaves or Needles

A tree that is dying or dead often loses its leaves or needles very quickly and suddenly. Or it has no foliage whatsoever, even during a time of year when it should.

Changing Colors

Unexplained discoloration of the foliage is another common sign of stress or disease — usually one of the first ones you’ll notice.

Brown, multi-colored needles are a common sign of sickness in conifer trees.

Cracks and Splits

Big cracks or splits in the structure of the tree can be a sign that the tree is dead, especially if other warning signs are also present or if the crack is in the trunk.

Changing Bark

A strange or different bark texture can also spell trouble. Tree bark is often a good indicator of the tree’s overall health. If bark is missing, loose, dry, or brittle, be concerned. When branches lose their bark, it means those branches are most likely dead.

Infections and Infestations

Animals and fungi often start taking over dead trees too. Fungus usually only grows on decaying wood, so keep an eye out for mushrooms!

Insects like carpenter ants and beetles often set up camp in dead wood too. Look for rows of small holes in the wood or places where wood has clearly been eaten away:

Photo: Whitney Cranshaw, Bugwood.org

Rotting Wood in the Trunk

A weak or spongy trunk can be a sign that a tree is rotting from the inside. If you notice this, call your local certified arborist right away. Rotting in the trunk is a sign that your tree may no longer be stable. You’ll want to get it taken care of before branches start falling, or worse, the whole tree comes down.

What Can I Do if My Tree Is Dead?

If your tree is dead, your best option is to have a professional come and remove it safely. If it’s a large or precariously positioned tree, you’ll want to do this as soon as possible.

If your tree is simply old, sick, or just unstable, you may have other options besides tree removal, such as cabling and bracing. Depending on the cause and extent of the damage, you might be able to salvage your tree or at least increase its life.

No matter what state your tree is in, an arborist, like us at Northwest Arbor Culture, can help you determine the best course of action for keeping your home safe and beautiful.

If it turns out your tree needs to be removed, we can help. We’ll even get rid of the stump for you! With over 30 years of landscaping experience, we can also help you decide what to do with the empty space or help you reconfigure your entire yard if you like!

If you’re worried about one of your trees, don’t wait until it’s too late.

Give us a call today at (503) 433-8791!

Photos: Joseph OBrien, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org; Wouter Verhelst; Aidan Grey

Last month, I showed you the best trees to plant if you live in the Portland area. Today, I’ll tell you why planting trees is so important and how you and your community can benefit! For example, did you know that planting trees can actually make you healthier? Believe it or not, it’s true!

But that’s not the only benefit of planting trees in your yard. Keep reading to find out 6 more great reasons to plant trees in Portland.

Because Trees Are Beautiful!

Trees are like one-of-a-kind works of art that you can help create.

No two trees are alike. Some are tall and thin, others short and full of leafy branches. Some turn gorgeous vibrant colors in the fall, others are a beautiful green all year round, and some even bloom beautiful flowers in the spring!

Trees are full of interesting shapes, textures, and even sounds! There’s really nothing else like them.

If you plant a tree in your yard, you’ll get to pick exactly what you’d like to see, and you’ll be able to enjoy it for years to come.

For Your Health

I mentioned this surprising fact in the beginning of today’s post, and I’ll say it again now: trees have actually been proven to improve people’s health and well-being.

People who live in areas with more trees tend to have lower blood-pressure and have improved overall psychological and emotional health. Kathleen Wolf, a researcher at the University of Washington in Seattle, even says that people with ADHD are calmer and more relaxed when they live near trees!

Helping the Environment

Remove Pollution

Unfortunately even green, eco-conscious areas like the Pacific Northwest suffer from air pollution. Sulfur dioxide, ozone, nitrogen oxides, and other chemicals are all released from cars, trucks, and other sources of pollution.

Believe it or not, trees can actually catch and prevent these pollutants from making their way into your lungs! This can help reduce the symptoms of asthma and other respiratory illnesses.

If you’re an allergy sufferer, there’s good news for you, too! The Portland area and surrounding Willamette Valley frequently have the highest pollen counts in the country. Luckily, in addition to absorbing man-made pollutants, large, leafy trees can keep pollen, dust, and other natural allergens out of your home and out of your nose and lungs! You’ll breathe easier with trees in your yard!

Provide Home to Local Wildlife

In addition to helping you feel better, there are other environmental reasons to plant trees in Portland. Trees make great homes for birds, squirrels, and other animals. Trees also provide a food source for these animals in the forms of nuts, fruits, and insects that call the trees home, too.

Birds and insects that nest in trees can also help pollinate nearby flowers and plants. This helps to build a natural, healthy ecosystem for all plants and animals in the area! By planting a tree, you’re doing your part to preserve our natural plants and wildlife.

Conserve Water & Minimize Erosion

Did you know that 100 trees can catch 250,000 gallons of water every year?

Without trees and their complex system of sponge-like roots, rainwater soaks directly into the ground, causing erosion, and potentially dangerous landslides. Trees and their roots soak up rain, and release it slowly, minimizing the risk of damaging erosion.

Provide Privacy

When you live in a city like Portland, or even in a densely populated suburb, it can be hard to find a quiet, private place to call your own– even in your own yard! That’s where trees can help. Their branches, leaves, and trunks can make your yard and home feel more private. They block out city noise and traffic sounds, and keep nosy neighbors at bay, too!

In the Portland area, trees like holly, bamboo, and cedars are great trees to plant for privacy. They grow quickly and densely and don’t require much maintenance. They also have a small footprint, meaning they grow straight up, don’t spread out too much, and stay right where you want them to grow!

Conserve Energy & Save Money

Many Portland-area homes don’t have air-conditioning. We’ve had some real hot days these past few summers and it can be hard to keep cool!

Once again, trees to the rescue! Shade trees like maples and dogwoods have large leafy branches that absorb sunlight and heat, reducing heat gains by up to 80%! This keeps your house cooler and can reduce your cooling bill, if you do have air conditioning!

Increase Your Property Value

According to a recent study, homes with well-maintained yards and trees tend to sell faster and fetch a higher price! One thing to keep in mind, however, is that the study focused on yards with mature trees. That means you should start landscaping and planting trees now, because it might take several years for a young tree to mature.

Why do trees improve property value? It’s not entirely clear, but experts think it’s a combination of all the benefits trees provide, from privacy to beauty and everything else in between. Even if home buyers don’t realize it, subconsciously they’re attracted to homes with beautiful trees and they’re willing to pay for it!

Build Community

An ancient proverb says, “A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade they know they shall never sit in.”

That’s really something when you think about it. In my opinion it’s the best reason to plant a tree. Even though you may benefit from the tree in your lifetime, your children and their children will get to enjoy that same tree’s shade, fruit, and beauty for generations to come.

Plus, if you live in Portland and plant a fruit tree, like an apple or fig tree, you can even contact the Portland Fruit Tree Project. They’ll come out and pick the fruit from your tree and provide it to people in need! What a great mission and one that’s easy to support. All you have to do is plant a tree!

When’s the Best Time to Plant a Tree?

People often ask me about the best time to plant a tree. My answer?

The best time to plant a tree is 5 years ago. The second-best time is today. By planting a tree today, you’re taking the first step towards reaping all the benefits of planting a tree that I talked about today. Planting a tree is an investment, and the sooner you invest, the sooner you’ll start seeing returns!

If you’re interested in planting a tree, contact me. I’m a certified arborist and can help you plant the perfect tree in your yard. Call (503) 538-8733 today and ask for a free consultation.

Photo Credits: Bill Reynolds, Garry Knight, Synspectrum, John Talbot, DanielSTL, Alexander Mueller,

If you’re a homeowner in Portland, planting a tree can be a great investment. Not only are trees beautiful, but some studies show they can actually increase the value of your home. Plus, trees are functional, too. Their root systems help hold soil in place, their branches can be home to birds, squirrels, and other wildlife, trees provide shade and privacy, and some even grow fruit you can enjoy!

But what are the best trees to plant in Portland? How do you care for the trees you plant? And what do you need to know before planting your first tree?

Keep reading to find out.

Where to Plant

Deciding where to plant a tree is just as important as the tree you decide to plant. A tree planted in the wrong place may end up dying or not growing to its full potential or it may even do damage to your home.

Safety first!

Don’t plant trees where they may interfere with overhead power lines.

Remember that trees will grow for years and years, so it might take some time until they cause a problem. There’s nothing more frustrating than investing time and money nurturing a tree and then discovering that it needs to be cut down.

Don’t forget about underground utility lines. Before planting any tree, contact the Oregon Utility Notification Center at (503) 246-6699 to find out if there are any buried lines you need to be aware of.

Protect Your Home

Improperly planted trees can be dangerous to your home. We recommend you plant any tree at least 10 feet from your home and 5 feet away from your fence or property line.

By doing so, you’ll protect your roof from falling branches, keep your gutter from filling with rotting leaves, avoid cracks in your foundation from your trees’ roots, and reduce the chance of your trees creeping over into your neighbor’s property.

Choose a Location Carefully

As a tree grows it may block natural light. Depending on your point of view, this may be a benefit or a drawback. Sometimes you want a tree that will provide more privacy, but you may not want to block out our precious Oregon sunshine.

When choosing a location, also consider the plants and trees you already have in your yard. Some trees and plants are “thirsty” and require more water than others. Too many thirsty plants and trees in your yard may require you to use more water than you’d like.

If you have questions about which trees and plants work well together, get in touch with me. I’d love to help you out.

What to Plant

Once you’ve decided where to plant a tree, you’ve got to choose what type of tree you’d like to plant. Luckily, living in Oregon there are plenty of great choices!

I recommend choosing trees to plant based not on their appearance, but their purpose. A leafy deciduous tree may look beautiful from the street, but if you hate seeing leaves on the ground, you’re going to regret planting one in your yard.

Let’s look at a few reasons why you might want to plant a tree, as well as a few of the best trees for each purpose.

Street Trees

Street trees are trees planted between your yard and your sidewalk. They provide a bit of privacy and can look great too.

In Portland, the city has strict requirements about the types of street trees you can plant. Depending on where you live in the city, you might be able to plant one of the following trees:

Alders

A photo posted by Wharton Farms Goat Milk Soap (@wharton_farms) on Oct 14, 2015 at 11:11am PDT

Alders are beautiful trees that flower each March. They grow quickly and look great!  

Elms There are many varieties of elm trees that can be planted as street trees. They grow quickly and have really great fall colors!

Trees for Privacy

If you’re planting trees near your fence or property line for extra privacy, you’ve got a few good options. Look for trees with thick dense branches and leaves, like:  

Holly Holly is a fast-growing, dense evergreen. It’s one of the most popular trees to plant when you’re looking for privacy or security.  

Bamboo

A photo posted by Neusa Gaytan (@neusagaytan) on Nov 17, 2015 at 5:39pm PST

Bamboo goes incredibly quickly and since it grows straight up, it doesn’t have to take up a lot of room to provide a lot of privacy.

Cedar

A photo posted by @livingtreehouse on Nov 17, 2015 at 10:01am PST

Cedar trees grow quickly, are tolerant to drought conditions, and also resistant to most insects and other pests.

Fruit-bearing Trees

Trees that bear fruit can be fun to have in your yard! They can provide tasty and nutritious fruit for you and your family to enjoy. But harvesting the fruit can be a bit of a chore. Luckily, in Portland there’s the Portland Fruit Tree Project, a group who will take fruit from your trees and give it to people in need. What a cool idea! Some of my favorite fruit trees to plant include:  

Apple Trees Apples are a classic Pacific Northwest tree that can produce delicious fruit for years and years. Just look at the color on those blossoms! Cherry Trees Cherry trees grow quickly and their fruit is really easy to pick!

Fig Trees

A photo posted by Johanna (@rosenbladet) on Oct 9, 2015 at 11:26pm PDT

Fig trees grow quickly and produce a lot of fruit that can be made into jams and jellies, or eaten right off the tree! Most fig trees will produce fruit twice a year, once in the summer and once again in early fall.

Shade Trees

A nice shade tree or two can protect your lawn, keep hot sun off your windows, and give a bit of privacy too.

My favorite shade trees include:

Maple Trees

A photo posted by ♡sakko♡ (@sakko716) on Dec 3, 2015 at 3:26pm PST

Maples provide great shade and great fall colors!  

Dogwood Trees

A photo posted by Maggie Ross McNeely (@maggiesgardentx) on Nov 28, 2015 at 11:13am PST

Dogwoods provide great shade and are some of the most beautiful flowering trees, too.

Caring for Trees

Caring for trees isn’t as hard as you might think. When they’re young, they don’t need much more than mulch and water. Depending on the type of tree, your tree may need to be staked to keep it grow straight.

As trees grow, however, they are likely to need a bit more maintenance. You may need to rake their leaves or prune their branches to keep them from getting out of control. Some trees may also need to be checked for insects, fungus or disease to keep them healthy.

If you need help caring for the trees you plant in your yard, get in touch with us. At Northwest Arbor Culture we have over 30 years experience caring for trees in the Portland area.

Call us at (503) 538-8733 for a free estimate and to learn more about how we can help you and your trees!

Photo Credits: Crystal Williams, rjp, Matt Buck, InAwe, Kathy Knorr, Mike Linksvayer

Curious about a tree on your property? Or just want to impress your friends next time you go hiking?

Today, we’ll be talking about Tree Identification 101: how the experts identify trees and the features they look for.

I’ll also show you an easy tree identification tool anyone can use in Oregon.

First, let’s look at a few of Oregon’s most common trees.

Trees You’ll See in Oregon

Oregon is a big state with a diverse climate. Some trees grow really well in western Oregon but not eastern Oregon, and vice versa.

The most common tree statewide is the Douglas fir, Oregon’s state tree. It’s by far the most common tree species in western Oregon, but it’s easy to find them in eastern Oregon too.

The Douglas fir is characterized by blunt green pine needles and 3-4” pine cones with pitchfork-shaped brackets.

Other trees you’ll find scattered across western Oregon include the red alder, hemlock, and bigleaf maple.

In eastern Oregon, you’re more likely to see a ponderosa pine, lodgepole pine, western juniper,

or grand fir.

Photos: Rosewoman, Menchi, Jsayre64, Jason Sturner, Bureau of Land Management Oregon and Washington, Crusier

Use this great resource from Oregon State University to check out more of the most common trees in Oregon.

Did you recognize your tree as one of those? If not, or if you want to be sure, keep reading!

Let’s look at the tree identification process and how the experts use it.

How Do Experts Identify Trees?

Oregon is home to so many different species of trees that it takes a lot of practice to learn to identify trees by sight alone. Even tree experts often refer to tree guides.

When experts want to identify a tree, the first thing they look at is its leaves. The shape, size, spacing, and even color of a tree’s leaves can tell you a lot.

Tree Features to Look For

When you examine a tree’s leaves, what should you look for? In a minute, I’ll show you a free, comprehensive tree identification tool you can use to go through the examination process step by step. But first, let’s see the three main features most tree identification guides will ask you to look at.

Conifers vs. Broadleaves

This is step one. Pretty much all Oregon trees can be split into two big categories: conifers and broadleaves.

Conifers are evergreens. They often bear cones and have leaves that look like needles or scales. Broadleaves are deciduous (not evergreen) trees. They have flat, thin leaves and shed them in the winter. Unlike conifers, broadleaves often grow flowers or fruit too.

So, the first step in tree identification is to check whether the leaves are needle-like, scaled, or flat and thin.

Spacing of Leaves

The spacing of leaves tells you a lot too. If you’re dealing with a conifer, are the needles fairly evenly spaced along the branch, or are they bunched together in a clump or a fan-like shape? How many needles are in a clump?

You can look for the same pattern with broadleaves. Are the leaves compounded (lots of leaves fanning out from a single twig) or are they simple (single leaves sticking off of twigs or small branches)? See the difference here. Do they alternate along either side of the branch or are they exactly opposite each other?

Answering those questions will help you narrow down your search so you can get closer to identifying your tree!

Shape of Leaves

Finally, look at the shape of the individual leaves. If it’s a conifer with needle-like leaves, how long are the needles? Do they have little pegs or buds on them? Do the needles have different colors?

If it’s a broadleaf, what are the leaves shaped like? Do they have lobes or are they basically oval? Are their edges smooth or jagged? Are they thick and leathery or thin and delicate? Are their undersides a different color? And what kind of fruit accompanies the leaves, if any?

Now you know the basics, you’re ready to use an identification tool to find out the exact species of your tree!

Using a Dichotomous Key

Dichotomous means split into two. A dichotomous tree identification key is a tool that lets you identify a tree by making a series of choices between two alternatives.

You’ll start by telling the key whether your tree is a conifer or a broadleaf. Then you’ll move on to more specific questions from there.

Here’s what you’ll want to have handy:

• Access to the internet
• A ruler
• The ability to get up close to the tree you want to identify

Now it’s time to get up close to the tree. If you can, take your tablet, phone, or laptop out to look at the tree, and go through the steps there.

If that’s not possible, take several detailed pictures of the tree before you start using the key. Make sure you get good close up pictures of the tree’s needles and leaves. Take some basic measurements of individual needles or leaves to get a sense for how big they are.

Ready to get going? Click here to start using the Dichotomous key from Oregon State University.

It’s that easy! Just make sure you’re certain about every choice you make before you move on to the next one.

What’s Your Tree?

Are you planning to try the key? Did you already identify your tree? Let us know what kind of tree you identified! And if you ever have questions about the health or safety of any of your trees, give us a call!

Want to learn more about tree identification? Check out these resources:

• Practice using the dichotomous key with a mystery tree
• Search a database of Oregon trees
• Don’t live in Oregon? Try the Arbor Day Foundation’s guide

Photos: Roland Tanglao, ~Cytryna~, James Hillyerd, Tracie Hall, Daniel Lee

First, an important note: Dead branches, those in the way of pedestrians, and those that could damage your property can be removed anytime. Don’t wait with a dangerous situation. If you have a tree emergency, you can call us 24 hours a day at 503-538-8733.

When to Prune Trees: Winter

Overall, the best time to prune your trees is when they’re dormant, so late winter to early spring is ideal. (In fact, that’s the only time to prune birch trees and American elms.) For shade trees like ash and oak, winter is the perfect time. Deciduous fruit trees like apples, cherries, and pears should also be pruned in midwinter.

Oregon State University horticulturist Ross Penhallegon agrees. “November through March is a good time to prune,” he says. “If you are worried about winter freeze damage, wait until after Feb. 1, which is the best time to prune in western Oregon, and March 15 east of the Cascade Mountains.” Not only is it less traumatizing to the tree, but it’s easier to see the tree’s structure without all of its leaves. Fall isn’t too early to contact your arborist and set up an appointment for the months ahead.

When Not to Prune

Don’t wait too late! In general, you want to avoid pruning trees during late spring and early summer. That’s when everything is starting to bloom. Trees don’t have enough of a chance to heal before the growing season if you prune them too late. The burst of energy plants get in the spring will help heal small cuts made in the previous months. 

If a tree already has leaves, don’t attack them too much — that’s where photosynthesis is happening and where the tree is getting its food. Not enough leaves mean not enough energy sources. Think of leaves as little, flat green batteries that keep the tree running.

Fall is also usually not the best time to prune. Cuts seem to heal more slowly during the fall, and pests or fungi can easily prey on plants. As Oregon State University says, “Pruning during the spring (post-dormancy) and fall (pre-dormancy) is generally the least desirable time as the plant is most vulnerable during those times.” Try to be patient and wait for trees and shrubs to be fully dormant before trimming them.

Although late winter and early spring is generally the best time to trim trees, some have different timelines. Read on for the intricacies of pruning.

When to Prune Flowering Shrubs and Trees

The main determining factor for pruning shrubs is whether they flower on old wood or new wood. Does your shrub blossom in early spring, on old wood from last season? The best time to prune them is right after they bloom.

If your shrub flowers on new wood — it’s a late bloomer, so to speak — the blossoms grow on the current season’s growth instead of last season’s. That means you’re fine to prune these shrubs in late winter to early spring, because you won’t be harming the blossoms yet.

Here’s a handy chart:

When To Remove Suckers and Sprouts

Suckers and water sprouts are unproductive offshoots that steal nutrients from the main stem or trunk. They aren’t harmful, but they can be annoying. This is one of the rare times when you shouldn’t take to the pruning shears in the winter, during the dormant season, because that will make water sprouts and suckers come back with a vengeance the next spring. Instead, clip suckers and sprouts in the early summer months of May and June.

Check out this 30-second video about pruning suckers and sprouts:

Is My Tree Bleeding?

When you prune certain trees like maples, birches, and walnuts, they’ll ooze sap. This potentially disturbing sight is trees’ version of bleeding — except they aren’t hurt. In fact, this is completely normal. Once leaves start to grow, the sap will stop flowing.

Why Hire a Certified Arborist for Tree Trimming?

After reading all this, you might feel ready to head out back with your shears and do some trimming. Whoa there, Nelly! I admire your enthusiasm. Unless you’re experienced and quite knowledgeable about trimming and pruning, it’s best to hire an ISA-Certified Arborist® like us at Northwest Arbor-Culture, because we know how to trim your tree or shrub without topping or making dangerous cuts that leave your plant vulnerable to infection.

It’s already September, so it’s never too early to set up an appointment for tree trimming this winter! Call us today at 503.538.8733 or fill out our online form for a free quote.

You might also want to check out our other blog posts on how to plant a tree, how to mulch your trees, and why your tree is dying.

Sources:

Better Homes & Gardens

Arbor Day Foundation

Oregon State University

1.  Meyer Lemon Tree

Lemon trees have sweet-smelling, beautiful blooms and delicious lemons almost year-round. They are always either blooming or flowering. Meyer lemons are hardier than other lemons, which means that they can withstand colder conditions. But they thrive best in warmer temperatures, so you should put them outside during the summer. If you have pets, you might not want this in your home. Lemons are toxic to cats and dogs.

Botanical Name: Citrus Meyeri

Care: Intermediate – Use slightly acidic, all-purpose soil. It needs a lot of light in full southern exposure. Keep evenly moist and mist daily.

Height: 8 feet indoors

Source: Martha Stewart

2.  Rubber Tree  

The Rubber Tree is a popular and versatile houseplant. Its large, glossy leaves add beauty to any room. It is adaptable and grows well in average indoor conditions. Unfortunately, this plant is toxic to animals.

Botanical Name: Ficus Elastica

Care: Easy – It grows well with indirect light. Place in an eastern window facing the morning sun. The plant prefers average to somewhat warm temperatures. It needs regular, deep watering. Let the soil dry out between waterings.

Height: 10 feet indoors

Source: Maja Dumat

3.  Madagascar Dragon Tree

A durable plant, the Madagascar Dragon Tree is one of the easiest trees to grow. It can tolerate low lighting and doesn’t need regular watering. The narrow leaves are dark green and edged in deep red. It’s toxic to cats and dogs – so if you have pets, you might not want it in your home.

Botanical Name: Dracaena Marginata

Care: Easy – It adapts to a variety of light conditions, but will have the best color when grown in indirect, bright light. Pot in a well-draining soil and water on a regular basis. Wait until the soil is dry before watering thoroughly with water that has set for 24 hours.

Height: 4-8 feet indoors

Source: Houston Interior Plants

4.  Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree

With large, veined leaves that grow upright, the Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree makes a great focal point in any room. Native to the tropics, the plant thrives in wet and warm conditions. Can’t replicate tropical conditions at home? Luckily, these tough plants can tolerate less-than-ideal conditions for a pretty long time. Pet owners beware: this plant is unfortunately toxic to cats and dogs too.

Botanical name: Ficus Lyrata

Care: Intermediate – This plant needs bright, filtered light. It thrives when placed in an eastern-facing window. You should keep the tree moist, but don’t let it sit in water. Any fast-draining potting soil will work for this plant.

Height: 10 feet

Source: Gardenista

5.  Norfolk Pine Tree 

This plant is not actually a pine tree, but it has similar evergreen foliage and an upright, pyramid shape. The tree can grow fast – up to 6 inches a year when potted. It is a popular choice during Christmas, but can be enjoyed year-round. Warning to pet owners: It’s toxic to dogs and cats. 

Botanical Name: Araucaria heterophylla

Care: Intermediate – This tree grows fine in typical indoor temperatures. It should be placed in an area where it can receive a few hours of direct sunlight and plenty of indirect light during the day. Rotate the plant a quarter every week for even light distribution. Only water this plant when the top inch of soil dries, and pour the water into the soil until it drains out through the bottom. Let the soil drain for at least 15 minutes and then dump the water.

Height: 10 feet indoors

Source: House Plants Guru

6.  Kentia Palm

This plant is a fantastic indoor plant. It’s also one of the easiest palms to maintain and care for, due to its tolerance for medium to low light. Lucky for pet owners, this tree is nontoxic to cats and dogs!

Botanical name: Howea Forsteriana

Care: Easy – Even though this plant tolerates low light conditions, it grows best in conditions with lots of light. Place it in a spot that provides as much sunlight as possible. Plant this tree in a container with adequate drainage and soil formulated for potted plants. You can water this tree less often during the winter, but it must be watered regularly in the summertime. You only need to water it when it’s dry during the winter.

Height: 10 feet indoors

Source: Real Oasis 

What’s your favorite indoor tree? Do you have any in your home?

If you liked this post, you might also like these posts:

• Composting 101
• How to Capture Rainwater
• How to Mulch Your Trees

In this post, I’ll show you how to build one type of simple backyard treehouse, but I’ll offer plenty of resources along the way for those of you with more ambitious plans.

Source: M S

No matter what kind of treehouse you want, safety is your first priority. If you’re not confident with your building skills or you want an elaborate design, consult a professional treehouse builder, such as Nelson Treehouse and Supply in Washington State.

Here’s your list of supplies:

• Pencil and paper
• Drill
• Nails
• Four 2×10 boards
• Six 2×6 boards
• 2×4 boards to use as rails around the treehouse
• Several 2-foot-long pieces of 2×4
• Garnier limbs and metal brackets
• Garnier limb standard knee braces
• Deck screws — at least 3” and 2.5”
• Eight galvanized rafter ties
• Exterior plywood sheets or wood planks
• Roof (optional)
• Wood stain and/or paint (optional)

Let’s get started.

Step 1: Pick a Tree

You’ll Need: 

• A sturdy, healthy tree whose branches separate from the trunk in a V shape

(If you don’t have a suitable tree, find out how you can build a freestanding “treehouse” here.)

Your tree should be at least 12 inches in diameter around the trunk. Oak, beech, maple, ash, cedar, hemlock, and firs are all good choices.

Source: fletcherjcm

Have an arborist come out to make sure your tree is safe. Don’t hesitate to call us if you have questions about the safety of any of your trees.

Step 2: Plan Your Treehouse

You’ll Need: 

• Cardboard and duct tape or a pencil and paper

Every treehouse is different because every tree is unique. Examine your tree for quirks, like a strangely shaped trunk or oddly positioned branches, and plan around them.

Then make a detailed sketch or cardboard prototype of your treehouse. Be sure to include measurements.

You can borrow one of these free treehouse plans or even design your own. And these fun and crazy ideas are sure to spark your creativity.

Step 3: Build a Platform

You’ll Need:

• Two 2×10 boards
• Six 2×6 boards
• Nails
• A drill
• Four Garnier limbs and four metal brackets
• Deck screws (at least 3”)
• Eight galvanized rafter ties

You want to make your platform strong, level, and not higher than 5 or 6 feet off the ground if kids will be using it.

If this is you first treehouse, WikiHow has good step-by-step instructions on this part. (Note that you’ll be using Garnier limbs, a type of treehouse attachment bolt, instead of the galvanized lag screws they suggest.) For now, I’ll give you a quick explanation.

First, place the 2x10s parallel to each other on either side of the two branches that separate into a V shape, but don’t attach them yet. This is just to help you mark where you want the Garnier limbs, which will be your main support.

Pre-drill into the tree, and then install the Garnier limbs. Find more detailed information on how to safely insert them here.

Now use the metal brackets and screws to attach the 2x10s to each of the Garnier limbs.

Source: Michael Garnier

Second, place the 2x6s over the 2x10s like this:

Source: WikiHow

Finally, use deck screws to attach the 2x6s to the 2x10s. Nail the 2x6s together. Then use the rafter ties to secure the platform, like this:

Source: WikiHow 

This method works great for most people, but every tree is different. To be completely sure your treehouse is safe, ask an engineer to take a look at your plan, and read up on treehouse support safety here.

Step 4: Brace the Platform 

You’ll Need:

• At least two strong boards (The number and length will depend on the size and shape of your tree and platform.)
• Nails
• Garnier limb standard knee braces

Nail the boards to the platform and use Garnier limb standard knee braces to attach them to the tree, like Nelson Treehouse and Supply did with this bold structure.

Source: Nelson Treehouse and Supply

Important: Depending on the strength of your materials and the weight of your treehouse, you may need to add extra support beams in the ground. I recommend consulting a contractor or professional builder unless you’re absolutely sure.

Step 5: Lay the Floor 

You’ll Need:

• Exterior plywood sheets or wood planks
• Deck screws (at least 3”)

Source: Danny Sullivan

Use screws to attach the floor to the platform. You may have to do some cutting and sanding to make sure your floor fits nicely around branches.

Step 6: Attach Handrails

You’ll Need:

• Enough 2×4 boards to build rails around the entire treehouse except the entrance
• Nails
• Screws (at least 3”)

You’ll want at least two 2x4s standing vertically in each corner of your treehouse. Screw them to the platform. Use nails to attach the rest of the 2x4s horizontally across the top.

Source: Wesley Fryer

Fill the space between handrails and the platform to stop small treehouse dwellers from falling out. You can use boards, mesh, or plywood sheets.

If you want to build walls instead of just handrails, get some tips from this family.

Step 7: Build Your Access Ladder

You’ll Need:

• Several 2-foot long pieces of 2×4
• Two long 2x4s
• Screws (2.5”)

eHow has great instructions on building a treehouse ladder. Here’s what they suggest:

Find an open space to lay the long 2x4s on the ground parallel to each other.

Start at the base by placing a 2-foot board between them at least six inches from the bottom. Drive three screws through each long 2×4 and into the ends of the 2-foot board. Make sure the small boards will be level and easy to step on when the ladder stands up. 

Repeat the same process at the top, again placing the 2-foot board six inches down. Add the rest the same way, making sure they are evenly spaced.

For fun, you could also install a rope ladder, fireman’s pole, zip-line, or stairs. 

Step 8: Make it Your Own

Now let’s make this treehouse feel like home.

Stain or paint the wood, add a simple roof, or have your family carve their initials into the handrails. Whatever you want! If you live in a damp area, also think about waterproofing your treehouse.

No matter what kind of treehouse you build, have fun and be safe. And share your fond treehouse memories in the comments!

For advice about whether your tree is strong enough, or any other tree questions, call our Certified Arborists at 503-538-8733.

Photo source: Shawn Campbell

Most of the time, you want tree roots to thrive. But if you’re removing a tree and don’t want regrowth, or if tree roots are dangerously close to something underground, you may need to kill them. It’s something we handle here at Northwest Arbor-Culture, Inc., and some homeowners like to DIY as well. Here’s a basic primer on how to kill tree roots.

How to Kill Tree Roots Naturally, Without Chemicals

An easy way to kill tree roots is to spray chemicals like hexazinone or bromacil onto the soil above, then wait for rain to push the chemicals down to the roots and kill them. But here in the Northwest, we’re pretty eco-conscious, and a lot of folks don’t want to use harsh chemicals. They can leach into our water supply, after all. So here are three ideas for how to kill tree roots naturally.

First, a little education. Trees use their bark to transport water and nutrients from the roots up to the rest of the tree. Girdling is a technique where you cut off the outer layer of bark, making it impossible for the tree to feed itself. The tree and roots will eventually die. This method is natural, but it can take several years if the tree is big. (That’s because trees can store lots of nutrients in their roots, like a backup supply of food.)

If you try girdling, cut the tree bark and treat the cut with undiluted white vinegar. (Substitute herbicide for vinegar if you aren’t as concerned about how to kill tree roots naturally.) If you don’t apply vinegar or an herbicide to the tree wound, you may get suckers, or small offshoots, as the tree creates new growth. Remember, different types of trees will react differently to girdling. If the sapwood is quite thick, it will take longer for the tree to die.

Paving or mulching on top of your tree roots will also kill them. (You’ll need at least six inches of mulch.) Without sufficient air, the roots will die, and so will the rest of the tree afterward. Like girdling, these methods take a while before they are effective.

How to Kill Tree Roots with Salt

Much like suffocating roots by mulching, you can cut off roots’ water supply and they will essentially die of thirst. Rock salt will accomplish this. When you apply salt to tree roots, it absorbs all the water, leaving none to nourish the tree. Let me warn you, though, that salt doesn’t discriminate. It will also kill your nearby plants and grass, so be careful.

How to Kill Tree Roots in Sewer Line

Trees love plumbing because it gives them a steady supply of water. Some people opt for chemical treatments if they discover tree roots in their sewer line. Adding chemicals to your toilet bowl will eventually reach the tree roots in your sewer line and kill them. However, some people don’t want to add chemicals to the water supply. I’ve also heard homeowners try to kill tree roots in their sewer line by flushing rock salt or copper sulfate down the toilet. Copper sulfate in particular is very corrosive, though.

Here at Northwest Arbor-Culture, Inc., we have access to heavy-duty equipment like augers and hydrojetters that can kill tree roots in your sewer line without chemicals. Augers go into your pipes and cut off tree roots. They may grow back, though, so some homeowners choose to follow this with a foaming root killer like RootX. Hydrojetters clear obstructed pipes by blasting water through them, pushing out tree roots that have crept in. Both are ways to kill tree roots without chemicals.

If you want advice on how to kill tree roots naturally, with salt, in your sewer, or elsewhere, contact the Certified Arborists at Northwest Arbor-Culture, Inc. We would be happy to give you a free consultation about your tree. Call or email us today.

Photos: Wikipedia, Anna Levinzon, Tim Green, Charles Barnard Tools and Machines

Having a big tree in your front yard is great… most of the time. Trees look nice, increase your home’s value, and provide shade, keeping your yard cooler in the summer. When fall comes around, it’s a different story.

Raking leaves is tiring, and keeping your property leaf-free can be a process lasting several months, depending on the tree. Most people don’t look forward to it. Maybe that’s why not raking the lawn is a growing trend.

Many people say it’s actually better for your lawn to not rake leaves. Are they right?

Pros and Cons of Raking Leaves

There’s good and bad on both sides.

For most people, the biggest benefit of raking leaves is the overall improvement to the appearance of their yard. Not to mention the fun of being able to jump into a freshly raked pile.

The biggest drawback for most homeowners is that it’s a lot of work. If you have a big yard and big trees, you may have to invest a couple of hours every weekend for a few months just to stay on top of it.

Other people say leaving a layer of fallen leaves suffocates the lawn and kills the grass. There’s quite a bit of evidence to the contrary, but if you really want to do what’s best for your lawn, you probably have better options than simply leaving your leaves untouched.

What Should You Do With Your Leaves?

Whether or not you rake your leaves really depends on a variety of factors, like where you live, how much work you want to put into leaf-control, and what you want your yard to look like.

Here are a few options to consider:

Leave Them Alone

Leaving fallen leaves usually won’t damage your lawn — unless you have a LOT of leaves or you get heavy snow in the winter where you live. That might stop your lawn from getting the natural light and fresh air it needs to survive.

For most people, leaving leaves alone is a viable option.

Some neighborhood associations may want you to remove all your leaves to keep your lawn looking pristine. If that’s your situation, keep reading.

Compost Them

Did you know that even fallen leaves contain important minerals that are great for your soil and other plants? When you compost your leaves, you can get a healthier yard and find a use for all those leaves that would otherwise go to waste!

Want to try it?

Use a lawn sweeper or rake leaves into a pile somewhere out of the way, like the backyard. If you’re fine having the pile their for a while, you’re done! But if you want to encourage leaves to break down a little faster, try one of these tips:

• Grind or shred your leaves.
• Mix leaves with manure or another nitrogen rich material.
• Turn the heap regularly — anywhere from every 3 weeks to every 3 days.

Turning leaves more often encourages them to break down faster.

For more composting tips and the best way to grind your leaves, check out this article from compostguide.com.

Once the leaves are broken down you can use them as mulch for your lawn. It’s great for grass and other plants!

Leaf Pick Up

Many cities have programs for collecting leaves. The city will compost them for you! In Portland, where we’re located, leaf day pickups happen from early November to mid-December.

If you’re in Portland, you can participate in a leaf day pickup by checking what day the leaf truck will come through your neighborhood. You can find that out on their website when it gets closer to leaf pickup time, or call (503-865-5323) or email the city.

Before your pickup day, rake or sweep your leaves into the street 12 inches from the curb and make sure you move your car. Here are some other recommendations from the City of Portland.

Don’t live in Portland? Check your city’s official website to find out if your area has a yearly leaf pickup.

What if it’s Rainy?

Here in Portland, rain in the fall is pretty common. Unfortunately. that makes it much harder to do anything useful with your leaves. The good news is heavy rain might make your leaves naturally biodegrade faster.

Even if you do plan to eventually rake or compost them, it’s fine to leave them until they dry out a bit.

Soggy leaves can be slippery, though. So try to at least get them off paths, sidewalks, and driveways. You can try using a rake or even a shovel with a flat head like a scoop shovel or a scraper.

What About Leaf Blowing?

Leaf blowing is great for moving dry leaves off paths, driveways, and sidewalk quickly and easily. It that’s all you want to do, it might be worth investing in a leaf blower.

The thing about leaf blowers is they just move leaves around rather than getting rid of them. They’re less precise than a rake or lawn sweeper, so they’re not great for getting leaves exactly where you want them, like in a pile.

If you want to actually get rid of leaves or compost them, you’re better off with a good rake or lawn sweeper and maybe a shovel to get leaves off concrete and asphalt.

Conclusion

I hope this post helped you find the best method for dealing with your fallen leaves this year. Regular tree pruning can reduce the number of leaves you have to deal with. If you want some free pruning advice give us a call at (503) 538-8733.

Do you have other solutions for dealing with leaves in the fall? Share them in the comments!

Photos: Andy Eick, Eden, Janine and Jim, Jeremy Noble, Derek Hatfield

Photo: Loren Kerns

Oregon is known for its abundance of trees, but do you know Oregon’s state tree? Who owns our forests? Which trees are native to Oregon?

Get ready for some tree trivia as well as some important tree safety advice for winter! I’ll even give you some tips for planting trees that grow well in Oregon.

A History of Oregon’s Forest

Ever since Lewis and Clark reached the mouth of the Columbia River in 1805, people have poured into Oregon, drawn by its forests and natural beauty. And it’s still happening today. Believe it or not, Oregon is the most popular moving destination in the country.

The influx of people over time meant more cities, highways, and infrastructure. Oregon also developed a huge timber industry, which is still going strong today. Despite all that, Oregon still has almost 92% of the forests that covered the state in 1850. Not bad!

That’s not a coincidence though. Private landowners cooperate with both federal and state governments to preserve Oregon forests. Among other strategies, that includes replanting, restrictions on clearcutting, and avoiding and managing occasional forest fires.  

Oregon’s Famous Trees

Oregon has a few famous trees to its name. How much do you know about the state’s most quintessentially Oregonian celebrities?

Oregon’s State Tree

Our state tree is the Douglas fir, an evergreen tree with pine needles and cones. The tree is named after botanist-explorer, David Douglas, who described it as “one of the most striking and truly graceful objects in nature.” Now that’s a glowing review!

Oregon’s Largest Tree

There is some debate about which tree is truly Oregon’s largest. It used to be a 206-foot-tall Sitka Spruce along the coast near Seaside, Oregon. In December 2007, a wind storm snapped the 700-year-old tree in half. You can still visit the 17-foot diameter trunk, though.

Here’s where the controversy starts. Officially, the largest tree is now a 329-foot-tall Douglas fir in Coos County (pictured below), but non-profit tree workers say they’ve found an even bigger Arcadia Cedar just outside of Cannon Beach.

The Octopus Tree

Without a doubt, one of Oregon’s weirdest-looking trees is a different giant Sitka spruce in Cape Meares, Oregon. Its nickname, the Octopus Tree, isn’t hard to figure out. The tree’s multiple trunks grow out of its base like giant tentacles.

The tree has historical significance too. Experts believe it was once a gathering site for Native American tribes in Tillamook, and place of reverence where elders made decisions and shamans performed ceremonies.

Who Owns Oregon’s Forests?

The majority of Oregon’s forested land belongs to the federal government, but not all of it. Here’s the breakdown:

60% – federal government

35% – private ownership

3% – the State of Oregon

1% – tribe lands

1% – other public ownerships

Oregon Tree Safety

In general, trees make Oregon healthier and safer by purifying the air and casting shade from the sun. Trees don’t come without risks though. Western Oregon in particular often has heavy rains and strong winds (like the ones that ultimately knocked down the Sitka Spruce near Seaside). In years like this one, we also get extremely dry summers, which puts us at risk for forest fires.

Preventing Forest Fires

Fires are a natural part of a forest’s cycle, but most of Oregon’s fires are human-caused, and therefore preventable. Some of the biggest culprits are cigarettes, gas leaking from cars, and fireworks too close to forested areas. Campfires are a big one too. According to OregonForests.org, there are several steps you can take to make sure your campfire is safe:

• Keep your fire at a manageable size.
• Never leave a campfire unattended.
• Always have a large bucket of water nearby.
• Let the wood burn completely to ash.
• Dowse your campfire with water until the steaming and hissing stops.
• Cover all embers, not just the red ones.
• Stir to make sure everything is wet and cold to the touch. Let it sit for at least 10 minutes.
• Check again for any remaining hot spots. Dowse with more water if needed.
• Use dirt when there is no water available. Mix enough dirt into the embers until everything is cool but do not bury the fire.

Try this next time you go camping to be extra safe.

Protect Yourself From Falling Trees

When wind, rain, and heavy snow hits, weaker trees are at risk of falling. Look for tree branches near your house or power lines, and get them pruned or trimmed.

The number one thing you can do to make sure none of your trees fall on people or property is to get them inspected before harsh winter weather arrives. We’re always happy to swing by and give you some free expert advice about your trees.

What Trees Grow Best in Oregon?

Did you know fall is one of the best times to plant new trees? If you’re looking for a tree that will flourish in Oregon and won’t require an unnecessary amount of maintenance, planting a tree that’s native to Oregon is a good bet.

Photo: Alex Indigo

Many dogwoods, maples, and evergreens are perfectly suited to the Pacific Northwestern climate.

For more detailed information on what to plant and how, check out these tips from the Portland Nursery. Or see this longer list of native Oregon plants

Questions?

Still have questions about Oregon’s forests, which trees to plant, or how to keep your property safe this winter?

Call us anytime at 503-538-8733 for free, no-pressure advice.

Photos: Doug Kerr, Bureau of Land Management Oregon and Washington, Alicia Mueller,